David Hellqvist and Oi Polloi co-founder Steve Sanderson discuss what brands define the legendary Manchester store and its new branch in Soho
Fourteen years after opening independent menswear boutique Oi Polloi in Manchester, co-founders Nigel Lawson and Steve Sanderson have finally made the move to the capital. There are plenty of multi-brand stores in London, but none with the same unique mix of brands. Add to that the soft-spoken characters of their founders and the laid back attitude of Soho and you have a surefire retail success lined up.
Manchester is famous for its football clubs and musicians – Oasis, Morrissey, The Smiths, New Order, Joy Division, etc. – and these two scenes have heavily influenced the fashion that comes out of the city. However, it’s unfair to say Oi Polloi is just for music fans and football heads. Their curated staples (Oi Polloi is defined by basics as opposed to ‘statement pieces’) can form the foundation for a healthy wardrobe that’s one part quality and one part style with a dash of attitude from the likes of Patagonia, OrSlow, Our Legacy, Engineered Garments and Filson. We spoke to Sanderson about his favourite brands, the store’s ethos and making their mark on Soho.
What defines Oi Polloi?
Steve Sanderson: It’s not what we do sell, it’s what we don’t sell that defines Oi Polloi – the way we edit collections, dig for buried treasures and sometimes find things that are hidden in plain site… That’s what I think makes us different.
What are the brands that truly sum up the store?
It’s a bit like asking someone about their favourite book or album, these things change over time and you tend to come back to the same ones time and time again. Right now, what sums up Oi Polloi for me are the following brands: Engineered Garments, OrSlow, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Tender, Anonymous Ism, Novesta, Birkenstock, Sassafras, Anatomic, Arpenteur, Beams Plus, Converse, Spring Court, Golden Bear, Garrett Light, Nanamica, Sanders… tell me when to stop!
“We bring some of our past into everything we do, it’s what you do with it that counts”
In what way is Oi Polloi still ‘Mancunian’?
I’m going to quote Rakim from back in the day: “It’s not where you’re from, it’s where you’re at.” More than that, it’s about where you’re going. We bring some of our past into everything we do, it’s what you do with it that counts.
Does music inspire the fashion or vice versa?
Music inspires fashion… Musicians, artists and other creative people are often the instigators of what fashion is. Fashion, to me, is more about following – not leading. I always err on the side of sub and counter-culture movements, that’s my bag, and it’s Oi Polloi’s bag. Always has been, always will be.
Why is now a good moment to open up in London?
It felt like the right time. London has been the aim for a while, we’ve been looking at Soho for about three years. We’re pretty patient, so when the unit at 1 Marshall Street came up, we had a look and knew straight away that it was perfect for us. It’s discreet and tucked away up a side road, not too dissimilar to our first store on Tib Street in Manchester. We’re now a little older and hopefully a little wiser, and this is the next chapter of our journey. There’s no point in going on about what you’ve done and where you’ve been, it’s all about moving forward and seeing where it leads.
A lot of the brands you sell have their own Soho stores – how do you hope to fit in?
Part of the reason for us being there is that we’ll be among friends. Stores like Our Legacy, YMC, Universal Works, etc., we know them well, so why wouldn’t we want to be in this mix? There’s no multi-brand independent men’s clothing store in Soho, it’s time to shake it up. We’re a good fit and have plenty great stuff to offer all the discerning gents in the area…
