Fashion

The Looks: Universal Works SS16

Universal Works founder David Keyte tells us why he enlisted animator Allan Buxton to showcase his utilitarian workwear through a stop motion film

Stills from the stop motion film created by David Keyte and animator Allan Buxton
Stills from the stop motion film created by David Keyte and animator Allan Buxton

Having presented his collection using a troupe of dancers back in January 2015, Universal Works head honcho, David Keyte, took another equally unusual approach to his latest offering. Partnering with Nottingham-based filmmaker and animator Allan Buxton, Keyte unleashed his ‘Not Another Catwalk’ performance at St. George’s church in Bloomsbury, London, during LCM SS16.

Not that Keyte normally shows his utilitarian clothes on the runway, but this collaborative film was yet another new and imaginative way for the brand to show off its latest collection. The animated stop motion film allowed visitors an alternative insight to the collection and the creative minds of Keyte and Buxton. At the show, I spoke to Keyte about the process behind this fascinating presentation.

Can you explain the reasoning behind this season’s presentation?

We always want to present the collections in new and exciting ways. We make very wearable clothing, well-designed and with real quality and attention to detail. But this can often be lost on a catwalk, which is all about showing off outlandish headline garments.

We are looking for interesting ways to show the world who we are and what we are doing, and that we’re here to make interesting and good clothing. We like to do this through collaborating with people who also making exciting things, so this season we are working with video artist Allan Buxton, whom we know from Nottingham and have worked with before.

Why did you end up choosing Buxton?

His work is witty, interesting and cleverly made – much like Universal Works, we like to think!

What inspired the collection?

I tend to have an eclectic taste in many things and the influences this season really do reflect that, from the films of Wes Anderson to military detailing and Edwardian floor tiles inspiring the geometric patterns. It’s a mixed bag, but it’s all coming together in a coherent and wearable collection, or at least I hope so…

What’s new for you this SS16 season?

I really wanted to work with darker, strong colours. Not the standard summer brights or pastels, but deep navy and rich camel or sand shades alongside ecru to give the collection a more sophisticated feel.