As he takes over as creative director at the esteemed Italian luxury House, David Hellqvist quizzes Pompilio about his aspirations and inspiration
The words luxury lifestyle aren’t always anchored in reality or even associated with ‘real’ people; there are plenty of brands out there with very little or nothing in common with what’s happening around us on a daily basis. Andrea Pompilio, the new creative director at Canali, takes a different point of view. “I get inspired by what surrounds me – people in cafes, in shops and restaurants. I’m trying to catch as much as I can and then, starting from this, I design my collections,” he says just after his Milan menswear debut. “At the beginning of the season, I look through everything trying to find the new in the classic. I start from iconic menswear pieces and I re-work them through new shapes, fabrics and colours.” As the esteemed Sovico brand celebrates 80 years as a luxury brand, the young and energetic Pompilio is in the business of making Canali relevant to a 21st century wardrobe.
“I think we are linked by a common thread: a taste for beautiful things and Italian style, the tradition of fine tailoring, the use of premium materials, an unconventional use of colour and extreme attention to quality and detail”
But that’s not to say the new capsule collection for Spring Summer 2015, shown in a sun-drenched Milan, is anything but a feast of traditionally luxe fabrics; Pompilio might aspire to modernise the cuts but the qualitative fabrics the House is known for stays put. “I think it’s the perfect balance between two complementary worlds that attract each other featuring a relaxed style, rich in original details… something that touches only marginally on classic tailoring and focuses instead on leisure,” he explains. White and checked trousers with 8cm cuffs, blue nabuk crocodile trainers, dark brown drummed calfskin belt and an ivory deer leather jacket show not only Pompilio’s dedication to fine fabrics but his aspiration to fuse classic elegance with modern technology. “I’ve experimented in a way that departs from my usual modus operandi, giving a new stylistic twist to the Canali brand while remaining faithful to its philosophy and values.”
The idea of mixing ‘old with new’ is a challenge many Italian brands are facing at the moment. Pompilio’s solution is as simple as it is effective: “Sticking to Canali’s tailoring tradition, I’ve introduced unusual shapes, prints and materials that don’t go unnoticed, not to mention an unconventional use of colour.” As one of few young designers showing in Milan (Pompilio is keeping his namesake label), it was perhaps inevitable that an established House would pick him up sooner or later. In Italy, the older generation of designers need replenishing, and that’s where the likes of Pompilio, Andrea Incontri, Stella Jean and Fabio Quaranta come into play. “I’ve always admired Canali for its style and elegance. I was intrigued by the fact that Canali, a brand with a high-profile reputation for sartorial tradition, had embarked in recent years on an evolving path. I think we are linked by a common thread: a taste for beautiful things and Italian style, the tradition of fine tailoring, the use of premium materials, an unconventional use of colour and extreme attention to quality and detail,” Pompilio says of the move.
Canali is well known for its tailoring tradition and made-to-measure service; their suits are the premium expression of their formal DNA – very elegant but always with a strong contemporary and looking-forward touch. For Pompilio the challenge is how to apply his own USP on the age-old brand. “This opportunity represents an interesting exchange between two worlds that are similar, but each with its own distinctive traits. I will attempt to learn and assimilate all of Canali’s sartorial capabilities. I want to have fun and experiment as part of a young team that works in a calm, but very stimulating environment – a situation that will serve to enrich me both personally and stylistically.” But Pompilio is missing out someone – it isn’t just himself and the brand who stand to gain from this new constellation… also Canali’s customers – old and new – will reap the benefits.
